Twice-Baked Potatoes

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake potatoes on aluminum foil–lined baking sheet until skin is crisp and deep brown and paring knife easily pierces flesh, about 1 hour. Transfer potatoes to wire rack and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes; set baking sheet aside.
2. Using oven mitt or folded kitchen towel to handle hot potatoes, cut each potato in half lengthwise. Using soupspoon, scoop flesh from each half into medium bowl, leaving 1⁄8- to 1⁄4-inch thickness of flesh in each shell. Return potato shells, cut side up, to foil-lined baking sheet and return to oven until dry and slightly crisped, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, mash potato flesh with fork until smooth. Stir in cheese, sour cream, buttermilk, butter, scallions, salt, and pepper to taste until well combined.
3. Remove shells from oven and heat broiler. Holding shells steady on pan with oven mitt or towel-protected hand, spoon mashed potato mixture into crisped shells, mounding slightly at the center. Return potatoes to oven and broil until spotty brown and crisp on top, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes. Serve warm.

To vary the flavor a bit, try substituting other types of cheese, such as Gruyère, fontina, or feta, for the cheddar. Yukon Gold potatoes, though slightly more moist than our ideal, can be substituted for the russets.

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES WITH INDIAN SPICES AND PEAS
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add 1 finely chopped onion and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 3 minced garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric, and 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves. Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, being careful not to brown garlic or ginger. Off heat, stir in 1 cup thawed frozen peas; set aside. Omit cheese and butter and stir reserved spiced peas into filling mixture in step 2.

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES WITH CHIPOTLE CHILE AND ONION
For a slightly smoky aftertaste with just a hint of heat, limit the chipotle pepper to 1 tablespoon. For a little bit of upfront heat, increase the chipotle to 1-1⁄2 tablespoons.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add 1 finely chopped onion and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Omit butter and add 1 to 1-1⁄2 tablespoons minced chipotle chile in adobo sauce, reserved sautéed onion, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro to filling mixture in step 2.

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES WITH PEPPER JACK CHEESE AND BACON
Cook 8 slices bacon, cut into 1⁄4-inch pieces, in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; set aside. Substitute pepper Jack cheese for cheddar and add reserved bacon to filling mixture in step 2.

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES WITH MONTEREY JACK AND PESTO
Substitute Monterey Jack cheese for cheddar, reduce buttermilk to 1⁄4 cup, omit butter, and add 1⁄4 cup prepared or homemade basil pesto to filling mixture in step 2.

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES WITH SMOKED SALMON AND CHIVES
This variation makes a great brunch dish.
Omit cheese and scallions. Stir 4 ounces smoked salmon, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces, and 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives into filling mixture in step 2. Sprinkle potatoes with additional chopped chives as garnish just before serving.