Memphis-Style Barbecued Spareribs

Don’t remove the membrane that runs along the bone side of the ribs; it prevents some of the fat from rendering out and is authentic to this style of ribs. Two medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, can be substituted for the wood chip packet on a charcoal grill.

1. Rub 2 tablespoons dry rub on each side of racks of ribs. Let ribs sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips in foil packet and cut several vent holes in top. Combine apple juice and vinegar in small bowl and set aside.
   3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway and place roasting pan filled with 2 cups water on 1 side of grill. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4-1⁄2 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill opposite roasting pan. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
   3B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Place roasting pan filled with 2 cups water on other burner(s). Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed during cooking to maintain grill temperature between 300 and 325 degrees.)
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place ribs meat side down on cool side of grill over water-filled pan. Cover (position lid vent over meat if using charcoal) and cook until ribs are deep red and smoky, about 2 hours, brushing with apple cider mixture and flipping and rotating racks halfway through cooking. During final 20 minutes of cooking, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.
4. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet and add enough water to cover pan bottom. Transfer ribs to prepared rack and brush with apple cider mixture. Cover tightly with foil and cook in oven until tender, 1 to 2 hours.
5. Remove ribs from oven, loosen foil to release steam, and let rest for 30 minutes. Slice ribs between bones and serve.