Grilled Hamburgers

1. Using hands, gently break up meat, season with salt and pepper, and toss lightly to incorporate. Divide meat into 4 portions and lightly toss 1 portion from hand to hand to form ball, then lightly flatten ball with fingertips into 3⁄4-inch-thick patty. Press center of patty down with fingertips until it is about 1⁄2 inch thick, creating slight depression. Repeat with remaining portions.
   2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
   2B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
2. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place burgers on grill and cook, without pressing on them, until well browned on first side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip burgers and continue to grill, 2 to 3 minutes for rare, 2-1⁄2 to 3-1⁄2 minutes for medium-rare, and 3 to 4 minutes for medium.
3. Transfer burgers to serving platter, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving on rolls.

GRILLED CHEESEBURGERS
Since the cheese is evenly distributed in these burgers, just a little goes a long way.
Mix 3⁄4 cup shredded cheddar, Swiss, or Monterey Jack cheese or 3⁄4 cup crumbled blue cheese into meat with salt and pepper.

GRILLED HAMBURGERS WITH GARLIC, CHIPOTLES, AND SCALLIONS
Toast 3 unpeeled garlic cloves in small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 8 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel and mince. Mix garlic, 2 tablespoons minced scallion, and 1 tablespoon minced chipotle chile in adobo sauce into meat with salt and pepper.

GRILLED HAMBURGERS WITH PORCINI MUSHROOMS AND THYME
Mix 1⁄2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and minced, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme into meat with salt and pepper.

GRILLED HAMBURGERS WITH COGNAC, MUSTARD, AND CHIVES
Mix 1-1⁄2 tablespoons cognac, 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives, and 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard in bowl. Mix cognac mixture into meat with salt and pepper.