Classic Mashed Potatoes

1. Place potatoes in large saucepan and cover with 1 inch cold water. Bring to boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are just tender (paring knife can be slipped in and out of potatoes with little resistance), 20 to 30 minutes. Drain.
2. Set ricer or food mill over now-empty saucepan. Using potholder (to hold potatoes) and paring knife, peel skins from potatoes. Working in batches, cut peeled potatoes into large chunks and press or mill into saucepan.
3. Stir in butter until incorporated. Gently whisk in half-and-half, add salt, and season with pepper to taste. Serve.

GARLIC MASHED POTATOES
Avoid using unusually large garlic cloves, which will not soften adequately during toasting. For chunky mashed potatoes, use a potato masher, decrease the half-and-half to 3⁄4 cup, and mash the garlic to a paste with a fork before you add it to the potatoes.
Toast 22 unpeeled garlic cloves (about 3 ounces, or 2⁄3 cup), covered, in 8-inch skillet over low heat, shaking pan frequently, until cloves are dark spotty brown and slightly softened, about 22 minutes. Off heat, let sit, covered, until fully softened, 15 to 20 minutes. Peel cloves and, with paring knife, cut off woody root end; set aside. Press or mill garlic along with potatoes in step 2.

GARLIC MASHED POTATOES WITH SMOKED GOUDA AND CHIVES
Reduce salt to 1-1⁄4 teaspoons and stir in 4 ounces grated smoked Gouda cheese (1 cup) along with half-and-half; set pot over low heat and stir until cheese is melted and incorporated. Stir in 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives.

MASHED POTATOES WITH SCALLIONS AND HORSERADISH
You can substitute 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish for the grated fresh horseradish.
After stirring butter into potatoes in step 3, season with 1-1⁄2 teaspoons salt and 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper. Whisk 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 1⁄4 cup grated fresh horseradish, and 3 minced scallions, green parts only, into warm half-and-half. Add mixture to potatoes and stir until just combined. Serve immediately.

MASHED POTATOES WITH SMOKED CHEDDAR AND GRAINY MUSTARD
After stirring butter into potatoes in step 3, season with 1-1⁄4 teaspoons salt and 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper. Add 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard and 3 ounces grated smoked cheddar cheese (3⁄4 cup) with half-and-half, and stir until just combined. Serve immediately.

MASHED POTATOES WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA AND TOASTED GARLIC
Don’t be deterred by the extra steps in these mashed potatoes—they are worth the trouble.
While potatoes are simmering, toast 1 teaspoon smoked paprika in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to small bowl; set aside. Melt 8 tablespoons butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add 3 minced garlic cloves, reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic begins to brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat immediately and set aside for 5 minutes (garlic will continue to brown). Pour butter-garlic mixture through mesh strainer; reserve butter and set toasted garlic aside. Rice or mill potatoes as directed, then stir butter into potatoes until just incorporated. Season potatoes with toasted paprika, 1-1⁄2 teaspoons salt, and 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper. Add warm half-and-half and stir until just combined. Serve immediately, sprinkling with reserved toasted garlic.